richgugl.blogg.se

The filter capacitor in the high voltage section is usually bridged by a high-value "bleeder" resistor to discharge it when power is turned off. The next item after the transformer is the silicon rectifier used in the high voltage DC supply for the magnetron. Since the transformer has both high voltage and low voltage secondary windings, it is possible for the high voltage winding to fail, yet the low voltage section to still work and supply power to the electronic controls. The high voltage transformer is the most likely thing to fail. You'll probably get tired of the oven before the tube burns out. Magnetron tubes are very reliable and not very likely to fail in less than 10-15 years. A bit more work and it was mounted on the wall again and back in service, although it took a couple of weeks for the remaining acrid smell to fully dissipate. I wiped the the oven cavity with household ammonia to remove the smoke residue as much as possible. Even though it was 5 years old and well out of warranty, we were able to get a replacement transformer from G.E., and after about a half hour of reassembly, I was able to plug the oven into a heavy duty extension cord and start it up on the bench. After the oven was taken down and the skins were removed, the failed part was visually obvious. The display and touch pad control still appeared to work, but it didn't heat anymore.

Profile built-in microwave oven whose power transformer had failed in a most smoky and smelly fashion. The kind of failure described in this section could be due to failure of the magnetron tube, the power relay that supplies the magnetron tube, or the high voltage supply for the magnetron, especially if the turntable, fan, light and controls all still appear to be working. The test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.Īgain, this is for academics only, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FIX IT YOURSELF unless you are trained in high voltage. Then, touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal and the other one to the metal magnetron housing. The magnetron can be tested by setting an ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Remember the frying comment above, this is the part that will not just curl your hair, but will most certainly be a shocking experience. Your microwave may turn on but does not heat. Strictly from an academic point, it could be the power diodes or a defective capacitor.

I STRONGLY SUGGEST NOT TO MESS WITH THIS. Microwaves have really gotten very inexpensive and probably will cost you less than the parts and labor for the repair. My solution would be to A: Call a trained appliance technician to replace the magnetron or B: buy a new microwave. The technician should also not forget the door switch since some of them can cause the same issue. I think there might also be a fuse in your microwave, but I do believe that if it was a blown fuse, your MW would not start up. On microwaves, these can generally go dead, usually with a popping sound. My first thought would be a blown magnetron.